Day 73 - Sunday July 30/17

(Written and posted at Watson Lake, Yukon Territory, on Monday August 14th)

Today is a travel day for us, as we move north from Anchorage towards Denali National Park. We had been planning to camp at Nancy Lake Alaska State Park, but with our delay in Anchorage to have the tire replaced, we decided to go further, and travelled to a free state recreation site at the Sheep Creek fishing access, near Talkeetna (map). This was our first experience with 'free' camping and it was pleasant! Lots of space and comfortable pit toilets. We will try to find more free locations to spend the night.

However, before leaving Anchorage we wanted to visit the Alaska Native Heritage Centre. So we were up (by alarm) at 6:55am, listened to NPR, had a shower, protein shake for breakfast, and did the dishes. We were on the road by 10am as planned, and went to the Native Heritage Centre which was only a couple of miles from where we had chosen to camp.

At the Native Heritage Centre, we first heard part of an introduction to the history of Alaskan natives’ interactions with both Russians and Americans (there are native groups on the Russian coast of the Bering Strait that are relatives of Alaskan natives). 

We then listened to and watched an Alaskan singing and dancing group, part of a cultural learning program for indigenous young people, which earns students high school credits. One of the things we learned was that the singing and dancing, which tell stories about the peoples’ lives, took place primarily indoors in the winter; with the whole community welcomed into a small space, the dancing, primarily but not only done by women, is done ‘in place’, with feet and legs still, and all the movement in the upper body, arms and hands. Men primarily drum and sing; although when they do also dance, their movements are more energetic and include foot-stamping! Michael even got up to dance when members of the audience were invited!! (photos)

This is a video of the dance group. it may or may not play on the blog.

We walked around an outdoor installation representative of the five indigenous groups that make up Alaskan natives: Inupiak & St. Lawrence Yupik; Unangax & Alutiig (Sugpiaq); Eyark, Tglinglit, Haida & Tsimshan; Athabascan; Yupik & Cupik (it’s a bit confusing, and was even to us at the time, as some of the groups are composed of a mixture of sub-groups - we may not have all of the names right). We were met by terrific young indigenous interpretive guides who introduced us to many aspects of the different regional indigenous cultures. We were made aware of both the similarities and the differences between the groups that live in coastal regions, both north and south, and those who inhabit inland regions.

We had a quick salmon burger lunch at the Native Heritage Centre, and left at 2:30pm. We made a quick stop for groceries in Wasilla (GREAT disappointment that we did not encounter Sarah Palin in hr hometown - NOT!!), and then drove on to the Sheep Creek Recreation site for free ‘boondocking’ (dry camping - no services; although offering bear-proof garbage bins, fire rings and outhouses).

We walked down a trail to the river and watched some folks fishing for salmon. Nancy chatted with her son Jamie on the phone. We had chili for supper, a campfire with toasted marshmallows, and then headed to bed.