Day 56 - Thursday July 13/17

A wonderful feeling to wake up this morning and not have to rush anywhere. Time to shower, have bacon and eggs, make salmon sandwiches for lunch, wash up a few dishes in a full size sink and pack up the truck as we checked out of our accommodations and prepared to spend one final day on Haida Gwaii. 

It was 13C and trying to rain as we drove to the Haida Cultural Centre in Skidegate. We were in time for the 11 am pole tour. 

(Note: In the orientation book we received from Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site “Carved poles are often erroneously called totem poles.  These carving are not ‘totems,’ rather they are concrete representations of family history, lineage, and rights.” However, several days later when we asked at the Nisga’a Museum, we were told that they do refer to the carved poles as totem poles. It seems there is a variety of opinions and preferences among the various indigenous groups in this regard.)

We joined a large (from our perspective) group of about 20 as we had the carvings on the poles at the Centre explained to us. We also heard several Haida stories that the inspired the figures we were seeing. And we got to see up close (and smell the fresh cedar) a carver starting a new pole to be raised the new hospital extension being built.

While having a coffee in the Centre’s café we had a conversation with a couple who were on the tour with us.  This couple had lived in the arctic for over 20 years and had some interesting insights to share with us. Interestingly they had won this trip to Haida Gwaii through a TV news program. These spontaneous encounters with interesting people are definitely one of the most rewarding parts of our travels. A real bonus!

We paid a brief visit to James Cowpar, our guide from yesterday’s expedition, as his office is located in the Cultural Centre’s complex. As we were leaving him we bumped into an Australian couple who had been with us on that tour to Gwaii Haanas. We spent quite a while standing in the hallway talking with them, comparing travel stories. Just as we were explaining that we were from London Ontario a woman walked by and excitedly introduced herself. She too was from London. She had gone to the same high school as Nancy’s son Jamie although a few years before him. She was with one of the banks who was sponsoring improvements to the local gymnasium. She was there with a Toronto Raptor who was offering basketball clinics as part of the bank’s program. What a small and interesting world!

We were forced to eat lunch inside the Centre as it was pouring rain. We then joined an afternoon tour focusing on highlights of the museum. We marvelled at the intricacy of some of the carvings done with simple tools. Nancy in a particular was enamoured by the cedar bark weaving which produced textured and decorative patterns in items such as hats and baskets. We were deeply moved by the simple timeline which chronicled the interactions of the Haida with Europeans. It was disturbing to realize the scope of the destruction our European ancestors and their imported Euro-centric culture and society, and diseases, had on the people of this place. Certainly learning of the wrongs that were done and acknowledging our role in that is part of the Truth and Reconciliation process. But what is the next step?

We went to a small local restaurant for a supper of seafood chowder before heading to the ferry back to the mainland. The soup was terrific. A fine way to leave this hauntingly beautiful place. We realize we would like to return and spend more time here.

Michael displayed his driving talents to their fullest when he had to back the pickup and trailer onto the ferry – even going up a ramp in reverse. But the really exciting news came when we checked in at the Purser’s Office to find that WE HAD A CABIN for the trip. After the deprivations of Monday’s voyage (the aching backs and heads caused by little or no sleep) which lingered for more than a day we were thrilled with our two bunk cabin. It had a chair, a bathroom with a toilet and sink and even a tiny shower. After being on deck to witness our departure from Haida Gwaii we returned to our cabin where we celebrated our good fortune with some wine and cheese. A happy ending to an unforgettable visit to Haida Gwaii.